Heading south, I passed the town of Orikum and the road soon climbed steeply into the Llogara Pass, one of those places that makes you feel very small and alone. The road clung to a mountainside so steep that when I craned my neck up I couldn't see it top out. On my left there was a verdant valley far below and another huge wall of gray rock. The valley seemed to pinch farther up ahead, for the views were long enough that I could mark the road's progress as it snaked in and out of sharp bends.

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