I wonder if any city in the world operates as many museums as Rome. There are 15 of them here, including the museums of the City Walls, ancient Peace Altar (or Ara Pacis) and Napoleonic Age. Last Sunday I checked out the Museum of Rome in the beautiful 18th century Palazzo Braschi, near the Pantheon. It tells the city’s fascinating history, though I must confess that with its endless formal portraits and marble busts of people you’ve never heard.

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