Istanbul was founded in antiquity for the same reason it prospers today: its location on the banks of the broad Bosphorous River made it a strategic port linking the continents of Europe and Asia. Today, Istanbul -- Turkey's tiny foothold in Europe -- is a strategic asset in the country's play for European Union membership. A sophisticated but unpolished gem, with a dazzling skyline framed by seven hills, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the world's most intriguing destinations.

European Istanbul encompasses the contemporary heart of the city, the Beyoglu peninsula, and the historic district of Eminonu on the Golden Horn. This glittering bay fed by the Sea of Marmara surrounds the point housing the historic treasures most admired by visitors. Visitors can choose to sleep in Beyoglu's 20th century neighborhoods or within the ancient city walls in the small hostels and inns of Eminonu.

Families with more than three or four days should sample the delights of modern Istanbul, which has evolved from dark days of "Midnight Express" and James Bond thrillers to become a very hip arts center served by Europe's top low fare carriers. In the quarter called Beyoglu, the Tunel funicular train has given its name to a hilltop cluster of narrow lanes made fashionable by galleries and boutiques. The Pera District surrounds the classic Orient Express Railway hotel, The Pera Palace, and Taksim is the pre-millennium business hub. The city continues to expand with newly developed neighborhoods, trendy and pricey restaurants, discos, and malls farther north on the European bank of the Bosphorus in the communities of Kabatas, Besiktas, and Ortikoy. As in antiquity, Istanbul's lower priced real estate (and up and coming arts districts) are on the eastern side of the Bosphorous River in Asia, where authentic Turkish culture is more readily apparent.

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